Last week my mom and I visited a bakery we’ve wanted to go to. I mentioned in my last post that we bought chocolate orange cake and tiramisu cookies. I couldn’t get ideas for tiramisu-flavored desserts out of my head. I’ve been craving tiramisu. Maybe because it’s been 2 years since my trip to Italy, somehow. So, I decided to make tiramichoux, a clever name for a delicious dessert. Homemade coffee buns of choux with coffee craquelin, filled with a coffee and mascarpone mousse. 

Coffee Buns (Tiramichoux)

I love tiramisu more than most things. It’s probably my favorite dessert. I’ve mentioned before, but my grandmother and I used to order a slice of non-traditional tiramisu at our favorite restaurant and fight over pieces. It had vanilla and chocolate cake layers, soaked with booze and coffee. Traditional tiramisu has no alcohol, and of course uses ladyfingers instead of cake. But before I knew better, I fell in love with what I thought was real tiramisu. 

So I’m a devout defender of the classic, authentic version. But I’m also open to trying new variations of that magical flavor combination. Coffee, vanilla cake or pastry, and sweetened mascarpone cheese. Part of the reason I like it is that it’s not too sweet. So, when I was brainstorming tiramisu-inspired recipes this week, I thought of a lot of combinations. Chewy coffee cookies with a mascarpone icing. A chocolate tiramisu with black cocoa sponge. The idea that excited me most was tiramichoux with homemade coffee buns. 

Homemade Choux Buns

I haven’t made choux pastry in a while. It’s notoriously difficult to make, but after my chocolate eclairs last halloween I felt confident in nailing it on the first go. So I developed a coffee buns recipe with choux using espresso in place of water. I also decided to make craquelin for the first time. I’m surprised I’ve never made it before. I’ve seen it on so many baking shows and love how it cracks and speckles the top of pastries. It also adds a great crunch, and an opportunity for more coffee flavor. I was so excited to try it. 

Monday was a rainy, dreary day. I let myself relax and play pool without feeling guilty for not hustling or working on projects. I’m trying to relax more these days and let myself have more non-productive time. I caught up on a show I’m loving (that I’ve since finished and miss greatly). On Tuesday I allowed my body to rest after a terrible night of sleep. I made popcorn and watched a movie alone. And Wednesday was coffee craquelin day. I decided to make it a day ahead just to make things easier for myself. And I’m glad I did.

Coffee Craquelin

I started with researching recipes. And brainstorming how to add coffee flavor without compromising the crisp, sugary texture. Craquelin is essentially a simple butter cookie with a high amount of sugar that you place over the top of your choux dough. It melts and splits delightfully and crowns choux buns with a crunchy cookie layer. Putting straight up coffee in the dough would make it too soft. So I added a half teaspoon or so of coffee extract. The gift that keeps on giving. It’s so good in coffee buns and chocolate desserts. Perfect for tiramichoux. 

My dough came together quickly. I remembered to let my butter soften for a bit first, so it was easy to work with. I usually find myself microwaving it in short bursts or shredding it on a cheese grater because I never remember to leave it out. But all I had to do this time was mix it with brown sugar. Which I made from white sugar and molasses. I just eyeball a tablespoon or so of molasses in my bowl of sugar and mix it up with my fingers until it’s evenly brown. But this time I decided to add my coffee extract too, which turned the sugar into a deeper dark brown color. 

Tiramisu-Inspired Pastry

Next I added my flour and a little salt. It gathered into a bit of a shaggy dough at first and then came together into a perfect shiny dough ball. I then spent a few minutes shaping it into a brick on a piece of parchment paper. I placed another piece on top and rolled the dough with a rolling pin until it was a thin, long rectangle. All that was left to do was punch holes with a small cookie cutter and place the sheet in the fridge to firm up. It amazed me how quickly it firmed once it was cold. Thanks to all that butter. 

I relaxed for the rest of the day. I took a great walk in my autumn attire. And cooked dinner for my family. We watched Survivor and I tried to go to bed early. Catch up on sleep. Thursday was a big day. Tiramichoux day. I always feel a little bit like it’s Christmas morning when I wake up on blog day. The idea of spending all day in the kitchen creating something special is so exciting and exuberant for me. It always reminds me of when I made croquembouche at age 14. I stayed home from school on the last day before winter break to avoid bullies. And I baked choux buns and made pastry cream and caramel and a huge mess in my parent’s kitchen.

Re-Doing My Choux Dough

That was when I first realized how much I loved baking. It seems masochistic to give yourself such a huge challenge on top of emotional stress. But it was my way of distracting myself. And I love a good challenge. So Thursday I woke my 30 year old self up and made my way to the kitchen. Covered in a much more serene, warm, and calm energy now than when I was that angsty and introverted 14 year old. I tackled my tiramichoux head first, too, and felt nothing but excitement. No weakness or fear when it came to making choux. 

But even the most experienced bakers have bad days sometimes. I started with the idea to make choux coffee buns with coffee instead of water. It all went great, but then I decided to get cute and add coffee extract too. I realized that the dough was too dark, and it was almost the same color as the craquelin. My tiramichoux wouldn’t be as interesting if it didn’t have that contrast. Nevertheless, I carried on. Because I added a little more liquid than usual, I found myself mixing my choux dough in a stand mixer and adding every last drop of my 4 whisked eggs. 

Deflated Coffee Buns

If you’ve made choux before, you know how dangerous adding too much egg is. It can be drops sometimes between a perfect dough that puffs in the oven and a soggy, runny mess that deflates when cooked. I shouldn’t have added all of my eggs. That’s why I always whisk it up in a pyrex measuring cup with a spout. You really have to add a tiny bit at a time after the third egg. The moment I added the last bit in I knew I messed up. I tried piping it, but when it slid out of my piping bag and flopped sadly on the baking sheet, I knew I was toast. 

I baked my coffee buns anyway. Just out of pure stubbornness. And I sat in front of the oven watching them puff initially. I had plenty of craquelin, so I added a disc to the top of each. They started to look great after a few minutes. But I knew I piped them too large, too, and that the 30 minute mark would not be enough to cook them. I watched them like a hawk and took them out after 40 minutes. Nice and puffy and browned, but not as tall as I wanted. I looked away for a few seconds and they deflated. Flat coffee buns (pucks) of doom. 

Coffee Pastry Cream + Mascarpone

My tiramichoux had to be perfect. I’ve always seen contestants on Bake Off start over after failed choux buns and a lot of them pull it off. The dough is fairly quick to make. So I gathered all my ingredients again and thought deeply about what I did wrong. I wouldn’t make the same mistakes twice. I decided to omit the coffee from the dough and just use water. No coffee extract either. Just a classic choux dough. Keep it simple. I would impart more coffee flavor in my filling to compensate. The craquelin would help too. 

But first, I had lunch. Mostly to keep my weary old body from giving out. I know 30 is still young. It’s pure hyperbole. But I’m feeling creaky lately. After lunch I realized I should make my filling first so it had time to cool. I had already decided to make a pastry cream / mascarpone mousse hybrid. Partially because I didn’t want to pay $15 for a lot of cheese at the store. So I started with a good old blanching of eggs and sugar. Heating cream. Infused with coffee and coffee extract. Soon I whisked up a nice coffee pastry cream for my tiramichoux and tasted it with my spoon. 

Another Choux Dough

Like a deep, dark coffee drink with plenty of sweetness. On its own it may have been too intense. But when it cooled, I beat it with a hand mixer with my mascarpone cheese. It became a delightful mocha brown color. And the taste reminded me so much of tiramisu. I spooned it into a piping bag and put it in the fridge to chill. At least that step went right. No redoing! All that was left to do was tackle my second batch of choux coffee buns. Thank goodness for making the craquelin a day ahead, because I was already exhausted. 

I started with the water, butter, sugar, and salt in a sauce pan. I let it melt away. And I poured in my flour quickly, beating the mixture with a wooden spoon. I cooked out the ball of dough for a few minutes as it steamed. Then, I placed it in my stand mixer and let it rip for a good 5-10 minutes. I always remember how important this step is. To knock the hot air out of it and cool it down. I think this is the step I forgot about when I was 14. When I felt the bowl and it was mostly lukewarm, I started to add my whisked eggs. 1. 2. 3. Then, I focused all of my energy. 

Baking Coffee Buns Again

The perfect texture makes a v-shape on your paddle attachment without falling off. I decided to make it a little more stiff than usual, just in case. You can always add more egg, but you can’t take it out. I added drops at a time, stopping and staring at my mixture. Doing the droop test. Finally I had a bright yellow batter that resembled my perfect consistency. I said a little prayer to myself and took it off the base, spooning it into another piping bag. I had my baking sheets lined and ready to go. The last key was to not pipe them as large as before. 

Of course, I got too excited and piped a monster of a first ball. But the rest of my tiramichoux was nice and petite. Better for actually cooking all the way through in 30 minutes. And I placed a cute crown of coffee craquelin on top of each of my coffee buns. I popped them in the oven, set my timer, and sat on the floor with my legs crossed. I stretched and sighed and watched them very nervously. They grew. And grew. All according to plan. And then they stopped. Normal. But because of the craquelin, I found it hard to tell when they were done. 

Filling + Eating

I cooked them a little extra. Just in case. And I lowered the oven temperature 25 degrees at a time for 5 minutes to keep them from deflating. Still, a couple of the big ones started to deflate and I felt deflated, too. I left them alone and relaxed in the other room for a bit. Coming up with ideas for other recipes to make. Quick things that I could do at the last minute. But when I went to check on them, I realized most of them didn’t actually collapse! The color was slightly too dark. But I chose to see it as an opportunity to practice embracing imperfection.

When they cooled I sliced off the tops of each bun and filled them generously with my coffee cream. I thought about dusting on cocoa powder, or powdered sugar, but I was too ready for a nap. They looked beautiful anyway. Simple is good. Finally, I tasted my tiramichoux. Sharp coffee flavor. Luscious, creamy filling. That signature hint of mascarpone cheese. It reminded me of a great cup of coffee, or melted coffee ice cream. The bun itself was light and delicious. Slightly sweet. And the craquelin crown on top was crunchy, sugary, and filled with coffee flavor. So good. 

Cold, Coffee-Filled Tiramichoux

I surprised myself. Both with how I pushed through to finish my recipe. I didn’t give up, which I was proud of. I didn’t panic, and I ended up with something damn tasty, that I’m very proud of. In the days since, I’ve been sneaking bites of my tiramichoux from the fridge. Which I think are even better cold. I can’t stop eating them. It’s becoming a little bit of a problem. I’ve got to save some for my mom’s Sunday breakfast. Wish me luck.

Thank you for reading! If you enjoy my paintings and recipes, be sure to check out my Etsy for 100’s of recipe cards and art prints. Use code THEFORKEDRING for 25% off. 

Print Pin

Coffee Choux (Tiramichoux)

A rich, coffee and mascarpone filled choux bun with coffee craquelin

Course Dessert

Cuisine American, French, Italian

Keyword choux, coffee, coffee recipes, tiramisu

Prep Time 3 hours hours

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Servings 18

Author theforkedring

Ingredients

• 16 tbsp unsalted butter softened
• 1/2 cup light brown sugar
• 2 1/2 tsp coffee extract
• 2 cups AP flour + 1 tsp sifted
• 3/4 tsp kosher salt
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup strong coffee
• 1/2 cup + 2 1/2 tbsp white sugar
• 7 whole eggs
• 12 oz mascarpone cheese
• 3/4 cup tap water

Instructions

• Beat together 8 tbsp softened butter, 1 tsp coffee extract, and 1/2 cup light brown sugar in a mixing bowl with a whisk or hand mixer.
• Add 1 cup and 1 tsp of sifted AP flour, along with 1/4 tsp kosher salt. Work into a cohesive dough with a spatula until it becomes a ball.
• Form dough into a rough brick shape and place on a large sheet of parchment paper. Place another large sheet of parchment paper on top and press down to adhere.
• Roll dough into a thin rectangle (about 1/4” thick and 24” long), making sure to evenly distribute the dough. Place in the fridge to chill on a baking sheet.
• Whisk together 3 whole eggs and 1/2 cup white sugar in a large heat-proof bowl. Whisk for 3-5 minutes until the mixture is pale yellow, ribbony, and no lumps of sugar remain.
• Heat 1 cup heavy cream, 1/4 cup strong coffee or espresso, and 1 1/2 tsp coffee extract in a large saucepan. Cook on medium heat for 5 minutes until it steams and beings to bubble.
• Pour about 1/4 cup of the hot coffee milk into your egg and sugar mixture, whisking constantly to keep the eggs from scrambling. Then, gradually add the rest of your coffee milk, stirring.
• Return mixture to your saucepan and cook over medium-high heat for 5-10 minutes, until the pastry cream thickens to a pudding-like consistency. I like to take it slightly further.
• Remove pastry cream from heat and let cool to room temperature in sauce pan. Then transfer to a large bowl and mix with 12 oz mascarpone cheese and 2 tbsp softened butter.
• Cover your coffee cream cheese mousse with plastic wrap, adhering directly to the surface. Place in fridge to chill until firm and pipeable (1-2 hours).
• Start your choux dough by heating 6 tbsp butter, 3/4 cup water, 2 1/2 tbsp white sugar, and 1/2 tsp kosher salt in a large saucepan over medium heat.
• Once fully melted, add 1 cup AP flour and stir the mixture into a stiff dough ball with a wooden spoon. Continue cooking for 4-5 minutes, stirring constantly, to cook the flour taste out.
• Place your dough ball in the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large mixing bowl. Beat on medium speed for 5-10 minutes, or until the bowl is no longer hot to the touch.
• Whisk 4 large eggs together in a pyrex mixing cup. With the mixer on, gradually add your egg, stopping to scrape the sides of the bowl.
• Once you’ve used 3/4 of your egg mix, watch carefully for the right dough texture. Add just enough egg so that your choux hangs from the paddle in a v shape, but is still stiff and not runny at all.
• Transfer dough to a large piping bag. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and preheat oven to 375°F.
• Pipe small mounts of choux pastry onto each baking sheet (9 on each sheet in a grid). The dough balls should be about 2 tbsp in size and the width of a bottle cap.
• Remove craquelin dough from the fridge and cut 18 circles with a small cookie cutter, the same with as the choux balls (bottle cap size). Place one on each mound of choux.
• Bake for 30 – 35 minutes without opening the oven, until choux is puffy and browned. Reduce oven temperate gradually until the heat is gone, and leave the pastries in the oven to cool.
• After about 30 minutes, remove choux from the oven and let rest until room temperature. Fit a large piping bag with a star tip and fill with your coffee mascarpone mousse.
• Slice off the tops of each choux bun, like a hat, and pipe a generous swirl of coffee mousse into each ball. Place the top half on top and serve.

Notes

• All credit to Serious Eats for their craquelin recipe.
• I used 8 oz of mascarpone cheese originally in my recipe, not 12, simply because the store sells 8 oz containers. If you’re trying to be frugal, you can make your own, or you can use 8 oz mascarpone and 4 oz regular cream cheese. 
• If you need help making your choux buns consistent in size, trace a bottle cap 9 times on the back of each piece of parchment. Flip and pipe on top of each circle.