I don’t remember the first time I tried scallion pancakes. But I’ve always been a big fan of Chinese food and frequently devoured scallion pancake triangles when we ordered takeout. During the pandemic I started getting more practice making bread and had plenty of time to try new recipes. So, I became pretty obsessed with making scallion pancakes, flatbreads, breads, you name it. All of this work culminated in a dinner party with friends that challenged my mental health. But it also made me inspired and excited to get back out of my bubble after a long time of isolation and anxiety. These garlic scape pancakes utilize garlic scapes, a farmers market favorite of mine, in lieu of traditional scallions.
Making Scallion Pancakes for Friends
It was 2021 when things started to cool off a little during the pandemic. The uncertainty, the isolation, and the health anxiety really pushed me back a few notches with the progress I’d made with my mental health. I left home at 18, went to college, then got a big job, and after quitting I moved back home. Temporarily. So I thought. That’s when the pandemic hit. I started by texting all of my friends, asking if they were okay. And then weeks, months, and what felt like years went by in my childhood home with nothing to do. No job. Nothing open. So I turned to my art and decided to work hard on selling my work.
Which was great for a while. It kept me busy. Focused. Motivated. But I experienced a ton of burnout after painting over 100 watercolors. Developing and editing hundreds of recipes. I lost the joy in what I was doing. And I desperately missed my people. The friends I’d made and connected with since becoming an adult. It was comforting at first – I didn’t feel like I was missing out. That everyone was forced to be a hermit for a little bit, and it was cozy. Everyone was pretty accessible on the phone. And then it became scary, and lonely, and I wondered when I would have community or friendships again in person.
Anxiety + Grocery Shopping
When things started to cool off and the numbers went down, we were allowed to go back out. My best friend was visiting and staying in Maine, about 1.5 hours from my home. So, despite my mental health challenges, being diagnosed with ADHD and starting new medication, feeling rusty with socialization, I decided to go and visit. And stay overnight in an unfamiliar house. We planned to make dinner and have some friends over. It all sounded great, and exactly what I knew my soul needed. But my brain was on the verge of overheating.
On the drive down I quelled my anxiety by listening to my favorite music. But as I neared Portland, traffic picked up, impatient drivers swarmed, and my fears heightened. I finally pulled into the small parking lot of my favorite Vietnamese grocery store and let out a sigh of relief. I perused the isles for a while, hoping it would calm me down, procrastinating my drive to the other side of the bridge and to our dinner party. Then I picked out Gai Lan, rice noodles, a few sauces, and a bunch of verdant scallions. I was late, and my friend was calling me, and I was terrified of catching covid. I couldn’t breathe in my mask.
Crispy Scallion Dough
My friend ended up meeting me there so we could drive back to his house together. I had to drive straight through the city through confusing and unpredictable traffic lights and across a multiple-lane bridge to an area I didn’t know. It sucked. My anxiety peaked, and I wanted to hide it. I was terrified that even the people who love me would judge me if they knew how “much chaos I had in my head”weak” I felt. I wanted to cry. When we finally arrived, I dove straight into cooking to distract myself from my anxiety. I didn’t want to talk about it.
I had to fumble around for measuring cups and bowls and quickly I was making my favorite scallion pancake recipe with my heart pounding. It was just me in the kitchen for a while. Time slipped away, and what would take me 30 minutes at home took me a couple hours. I had a massive headache and felt dehydrated. My anxiety had not gone away, and people were arriving. I still don’t know why I was so anxious, but the arrival of people I had never met or hadn’t seen in a while freaked me out. I also felt panicked about cooking quickly so they could eat. And impressing them with how much my friends talk up my cooking.
Growing + Changing
Long story short, the food came out great, and I pushed through a tidal wave of fear to finish. But I pushed myself too hard and compartmentalized my anxiety. Which caused it all to bubble over. I didn’t eat. As my friends gathered around the dining table, I crept downstairs into my temporary bedroom and locked the door. I put in my headphones and ignored my phone. I breathed as deeply as I could and just felt the weight of the world on my chest. Mental health is confusing, and not fun sometimes. But after a few minutes I started to feel more calm. Still very much anxious. My friend came in to check on me. He offered to take a walk to get some fresh air, and he was there for me. Which meant a lot.
After a while I pumped myself up and went back upstairs. Most people had left, but three or four of us stayed and talked outside over the moonlight picnic table. Avatar the Last Airbender. Zodiac signs. Food. I heated up some of the pad see ew I made and stood in the kitchen, venting while crunching on cold scallion pancakes. They tasted amazing. It was winter, so I borrowed a beanie and went back outside with a mug of something hot. I was reminded of my younger self when I left camp early, terrified of being away from home. And I felt proud that I ended that night still sleeping over in that unfamiliar house with leftover scallion pancakes in the fridge. I didn’t sleep well, but I made it.
Bagels by the Beach
The next day we got bagels and went to the beach, which was heavenly. My anxiety had diminished greatly and I felt in my element. I really realized in that moment how much I missed people. Friends. Beaches. Adventures. And it helped me escape from that pandemic loneliness for a while. I drove home blasting music, proud, and well-fed. So, I think of that day whenever I make scallion or garlic scape pancakes. How I’ve come so far with my anxiety. How that situation is not nearly as scary to me now. I’m proud of the work I’ve done, and how much I’ve taken care of myself. And I’m grateful for the friends that have helped me get there.
This week I picked up garlic scapes and scallions at the farmers market. Garlic scapes are special to me – something I love to tempura fry and dip in aioli or soy sauce. They have the raw texture of a garden hose but become soft and green-bean like when cooked. They taste garlicky and fresh. So, I decided to chop them up and use them in combination with scallions in garlic scape pancakes. This time I was calm and took my time. I enjoyed the kneading and folding and crisping. They made great snacks for the past few days. And they make an amazing breakfast wrap with eggs and cheese. If you dip them in duck sauce they’re next level.
Garlic Scape Pancakes
I hope you feel inspired to make these garlic scape pancakes – they’re truly so delicious. The texture is a little chewy, yet crunchy. And the flavor is garlicky and buttery. They’re perfect for a dinner party, or just to have on hand for lazy breakfasts.
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Garlic Scape Pancakes
Ingredients
- 2 cups bread flour
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup boiling water
- 1/4 cup + 1 tbsp cold water
- 2 cups chopped garlic scapes or scallions
- 1/4 cup AP flour + 1 tbsp
- 1/4 cup neutral oil olive, peanut, etc.
- 1 tsp salt
Instructions
- Start by combining bread flour and salt in a medium bowl.
- Stir in boiling water with a chopstick until a shaggy dough forms. Then, add cold water and mix to combine.
- Knead for 5-10 minutes until dough is ball-shaped and elastic. Rest, covered, for 20-30 minutes.
- To prepare your filling, mix AP flour, neutral oil, and salt in a small bowl. Combine until no lumps are left.
- Chop your scallions or garlic scapes into small diced pieces. Set aside.
- When your dough has finished resting, cut into 6 equal pieces. If you want bigger pancakes, cut into 4 instead of 6.
- With each piece, lightly flour your work surface and roll into a long, thin rectangle shape (about 6-8″ long and 2-4″ wide.
- Spoon on about a tablespoon of your oil and flour mixture and spread evenly over the dough. Then, sprinkle the edge of the dough with scallions or garlic scapes.
- Roll into a tight log, pressing air out as you seal the dough over the vegetable pieces. Flatten your log into a long strip of dough and roll into a cinnamon roll shape. Let each roll rest while you prepare the next.
- Once all pieces of dough are filled and coiled, one at a time roll each into a long, thin flatbread shape. Go as big as you’d like, just avoid the pancakes being too thick or they risk being raw in the middle.
- Heat 2 tbsp neutral oil in a nonstick pan or cast iron skillet over medium/high heat. One at a time, cook pancakes 2-3 minutes on a side until golden and crisp. Cover the pan with a lid to ensure the pancakes are cooked through if they are on the thicker side.
- Stack your pancakes as you cook on a kitchen towel or aluminum foil to hold in the heat.
Notes
- You can use butter or clarified butter (ghee) in lieu of oil in your scallion pancake filling for extra luxuriousness.
- I love the flavor of garlic scapes in these, but you can mix them with scallions, hot peppers, or anything you like.
- I recommend salting the pancakes after they cook, but make sure to taste them before seasoning.
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